Day 37 - Lindisfarne - The Two Piligrims Way

St. Cuthbert's Way

Today we set off to visit Holy Island or Lindisfarne as part of the the 62.5 mile route of the Cuthbert's Way from Melrose to Holy Island. We intend to visit various parts of St. Cuthbert's Way during our stay and St Oswald's Way that follows part of the coastal route to Hadrian's Wall and links some of the places over 97 miles associated with St. Oswald, the King of Northumbria in the early 7th Century, who was instrumental in bringing Christianity to his people.

Bryant especially will be please to learn that we managed to drive across the causeway without incident as he presented us with a cartoon he had drawn of us getting stuck whilst towing the caravan! I am told that if you stand on Holy Island and look to the main land and see 5 poles that are clear of the tide, you have sufficient time to return by car.

Poles marking the Pilgrim's path to Holy Island.
there are 123 poles marking the safest route to the island.

During the last Ice Age sea levels rose and a small piece of land was left standing proud, linked to the mainland by sands exposed only at low tide. Originally known known as Lindisfarne - an Anglo-Saxon name where farne means retreat, it became known as Holy Island since the time of St Cuthbert. The island  has become a place of pilgrimage for Christians and over-wintering birds! Rev David Adams former vicar of Lindisfarne has helped to reintroduced Celtic Spirituality with his prayers and liturgies.We follow a spiritual walk, following the path that the early monks used hundreds of years ago.

St Aidans Catholic Church

We pass St Aidan's Catholic church as we walk into the nature reserve, we were hoping to find some "St Cuthbert's Ducks" otherwise known as The Eider Ducks of the Farnes - about 1000 breed on the islands, they have a "Greek" nose, is is white above and black below and are the largest of the diving ducks. - but none were to be seen.

Waggonway

 
We followed the original waggonway to the castle.
The ionic castle today is an old Tudor fort that was converted into an Edwardian holiday home by Edward Hudson the founder of Country Life magazine in 1901. However in Tudor times the island occupied a key position in the border between England and Scotland. In 1543, 2,000 soldiers where landed to subdue the Scots. When the two Kingdoms were united in 1603, the castle lost its role as a border fort and the garrison had only 7 men, decommissioned in 1893 it later served as a coastguard lookout station.

View of the castle from the Priory

We looked around the castle which still houses most of Hudson's original furniture.

Around the base of the castle at the waters edge various stone pillars are to be found - who and when were these made?

We continued past the harbour and saw the upturned herring boats that have been cut in half and turned into fishermen's huts.

Upturned boats

We made our way to the Priory. Holy Island has been home, at different times to two very different Christian Communities. The first monastery was of "Celtic" origin , founded by St Aidan in 635AD, a monk from Iona, the wooden buildings have completely disappeared. The monks were finally forced to leave Lindisfarne because of the Viking raids.
At the age of 17 Cuthbert decided to be come a monk after seeing a vision of angles coming to earth and returning to heaven with a shining soul. The same night he heard that Aidan had died. Aidan went to Melrose Monastery, a sister monastery to Lindisfarne as a novice.
During this period Augustine had landed at Canterbury sent by Pope Gregory as missionaries, The Celtic and Roman Church had differences of church order and traditions. These differences came to a head in 664AD at the Syond of Whitby which traditions and customs should be followed. The verdict went against the Celtic Church. Most of Lindisfarne monks decided to leave and go to Ireland. Cuthbert was appointed as the new prior with the aim of restoring morale. He also was reputed to have the gift of healing, both physical and spiritual and so people started to visit him on the island. During this period Cuthbert also felt God calling him into a life of a hermit, and moved to what is now known as Cuthbert's island.In 684AD he became Bishop of York and travelled on horseback, many hundred of miles across Northumbria.

This Domesday stone carving shows the Vikings who invaded and dates from the first century
of monastic life at Lindisfarne

The ruins seen today date from 1093 when the Benedictine monks arrived and set up a new Priory as a daughter house to Durham, which had been founded by its possession of the body of St Cuthbert! and had become the most powerful monasteries in the north-east. For most of the border conflicts, Holy Island as it was now known managed to escape, although part of the monastery was fortified. The end of Holy Island Priory came in 1537 as they had an income of only £88a year and was closed as part of the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The few monks returned to Durham, not knowing in 2 years time Durham would be forced to close as well.
A point to ponder: The Celtic monastery,with wooden huts and austere way of life, produced saints and missionaries as well as the beautiful illustrated Lindisfarne gospels (Now in the British library) the Benedictine monastery with a grand building produced nothing - no saints, no art or learning!

Ruins of the Priory Monastery 

Sharing the same site of the Priory is St Mary the Virgin Church. Originally dedicated to St Aidan, its name was changed at the Reformation when all churches had to be connected with Scripture. The church possibly stands on the spot of the original Saxon church.

St Mary The Virgin Church

Inside the church a wooden sculpture show the monks carrying the coffin of St Cuthbert through Nothumberland looking for a safe haven after escaping the Viking raids, after 100 years, they came to Durham, his final resting place.

Following the route of Pilgrims Way we stop at the URC Church, which marks the end of the route.The church has been revamp and now hosts exhibitions.

URC Church

We finish at the "Gospel Gardens" -a chance to relax before we journey back.

St Aidan

As Aidan cared for the souls of others
help me to love unconditionally.
As Cuthbert trusted in You for all his needs,
help me to have faith.
As this island has been soaked in prayer,
Help me to pray increasingly.
(Prayer from St Mary The Virgin)

We continue to pray for all those who continue to need God's healing.