Day 23 - Mull

Anne still wasn't 100% this morning, so we decided the best think was to return back to Oban ASAP. Unfortunately our return ferry wasn't booked until 7pm as the original plan was to spend as much time on Mull, or revisting Iona. I took the decision to risk turning up at the ferry port at Craignure and explain our situation. So we left the comfort of Caol the B&B but not before I had tucked in to smoked salmon and scrambled eggs watch by Anne who just had  fruit tea.

Caol Ithe Guesthouse

On arrival at the ferry port - Craignure I explained our plight. Unfortunately the earliest return would be 5pm, as they were overbooked, but a compromise was made if we we prepared to drive to the next crossing at Fishnish, they would honour our ticket but it would mean extra driving north as the ferry landed at Gamony, and we would need to catch a second ferry from Clovullin to Onich to avoid driving around Loch Innhe this seemed like a plan, even if it meant extra driving, as Anne although recovering was still washed out. - All went well and we were back by early afternoon to Anne's relief.

Below are some of the 'snap shots' on route around Mull - as down time was the order for the rest of the day! - will see what tomorrow holds

Duart Castle

On board the ferry at Fishnish

 

Day 22- Pilgrimage to Iona

Leaving the campsite early we set off for the ferry to Mull that would take us finally to Iona. Although the weather didn't look promising this was a "fixed" point in our journey. (After discovering that I have left the waterproof trousers at home, we had been on the look out yesterday for replacements, as the weather on Iona can be uncompromising!).

Having arrived very early we had coffee in Wetherspoons whilst we waited for the ferry to arrive.

The crossing confirmed our thoughts yesterday that waterproofs would be the order of the day.. rain soon set in, however by the time we landed there was a glimmer of sun. The drive across Mull to Fionnphort was stunning, alas we had no time to stop to take photo's as we needed to catch the Iona ferry, which in the end we missed by a few minutes.

Iona Ferry

Iona was the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. St Columba arrived in 563AD bringing Christianity to Britain, although its history, reaches back much further. Its rocks are around 2,700 million years old, and 4-5,000 years before the birth of Jesus, hunters roamed the area in about 3500BC, and round the west side of the island are remains of a small Iron-Age Fort used by Celtic Tribes.

Iona Abbey from the ferry

Every Tuesday the "Iona Community" (- a Christian community founded in 1938 by Rev George MacLeod gathered around the restored ancient monastic buildings of Iona Abbey) organise a pilgrimage around Iona visiting places of both religious and historical importance. The "plan" was to follow the stations of the weekly pilgrimage around Iona, however Anne was feeling slightly queasy so we decided to restrict ourselves to the area around the Abbey.

The Nunnary

The Nunnary

Built in 1203 by Reginald MacDonald, it was one of only two nunneries found in Scotland and was a mini version  of the abbey. nicknamed "Black Church" after the nuns' habit, it was not repaired after the Reformation.

The Village

Iona is home to approx 90 people, it boasts a Post office, shops, school, doctors and library, proving that this is a living and working community, and not just the site of ancient monuments.

School bike shed!

Saint Martin's Cross

The cross of St Martin has stood on this spot, outside the abbey for over 1000 years. named after a Roman soldier who one night tore his military cloak in two and gave it to a disabled person for warmth. Converted to Christianity he became known for being a conscientious objector to serve in the Roman army and later became the Bishop of Tours. He never came to these shores, but was buried on 11th November, which centuries later would become a day of remembering and peace. The site possibly marks the place of Columba's grave.

In front of Saint Martin's Cross is a small grass mound called "Tor Abb" - this may have been part of Saint Columba Cell - a small beehive shaped cell that would have been home for the original community, made out of wood and turf, together with a small wooden church. - none survive today. The monastery was established in 563 and their missionary endeavors stretched as far as Russia, the monks left Iona in the 9th century due to years of vicious Viking raids and settled in Ireland.

The Abbey
In 1203 the Benedictine abbey was founded and for 400 years the abbey and outbuildings took shape. However its religious life and influence by the Reformation had declined and after the church became Protestant. By the 19th century the abbey buildings were ruins. Viking raids and settled in Ireland. In 1203 the Benedictine abbey was founded and for 400 years the abbey and outbuildings took shape. However its religious life and influence by the Reformation had declined and after which the church became Protestant. By the 19th century the abbey building were only ruins.
However in 1899 the abbey was gifted to the Iona Cathedral Trustees as a place for ecumenical worship. In 1938 The Iona Community came into being committed to a common rule of daily prayer and bible study, sharing and being accountable for their time, money and for social justice. The community continued to repair the abbey buildings, most of the work being completed in the mid 1960’s as a sign of unity when Ecumenism in Britain was a high point – this was a new model of being church. Today the Abbey continues to be a place of daily Christian prayer and worship as well as being a place of pilgrimage.

The Abbey Cloisters

St Oran Chapel
Thought to be one of the oldest building on the island, St Organ’s Chapel dates from the 11th century. It is reported that Columba couldn’t complete the construction of the original church until a living person had been buried in the foundations! Oran a disciple offered and was duly buried, later Columba decided he wanted his face to be uncovered so he could say goodbye to his friend. This was done only to discover that Oran was still alive so Columba ordered him to be covered up.

Maclean’s Cross
A prayer Cross, erected about 1500, where three medieval roads meet, commissioned by Chief MacLean

Martyrs Bay
In 806AD the bay was the place where 68 monks were killed by Viking Raiders, it was also

Chief with a crucifixion scene on the west side. It stand close to the Parish Church.

the landing place for funeral possessions. Today the island War Memorial stands to remind us of the victims of torture and massacre in our world continues.

These are just some of the places we visited on our short pilgrimage around Iona, plus a quick browse in the Iona bookshop. The weather improved during the afternoon, fortunately we had already pre-booked B&B for the night on Mull, Anne can get a good rest before tomorrow. Great view of the Abbey from our bedroom window!

If she is up to it we are off to… Tobermory in the morning.

Day 21 - Bert, Jack and Ben Nevis - A personal Reflection

Born the son of a Primitive Methodist Minister Bert Bissell has been described as a modern Methodist Saint. On VJ Day 1945 he climbed Ben Nevis and built a Peace Cairn for world peace. He climbed Ben Nevis a further 107 times, the last at the age of 91 just before his death. Fort William became his second home where he was given the freedom of the town and he is buried in the cemetery. I never met Bert, but I am indebted to the Young Men’s bible class he started with four friends at Vicar’s Street Methodist Church in Dudley, just outside Birmingham on Sunday 13th September 1925. Within four years the bible class had over 300 members and over the years produced 18 Methodist Ministers and over 100 Local Preachers. One of those friends who started with Bert was a Local Preacher, Jack Bloomer who at the time was training to be a teacher. On finishing his training he left Dudley to take up a position as English teacher at Strodes Grammar School for boys in Egham. Jack, took his enthusiasm for bible study with him, and discovered a small group of Primitive Methodists meeting in a “tin Chapel” which had once served as a First Aid Hut in 1WW and had been purchased as a Church Plant in the growing area of Egham Hythe, near Runnymede. Jack found they held a bible study group on a Thursday, he decided to go and found a small group of elderly ladies, who welcomed him to their group.

Jack decided to make his home in Egham, and under his care the church began to grow eventually the tin chapel was replaced with a brick building and Jack became deputy head of Strodes until his retirement. Why do I mention this, in the late 1960’s my family moved to Egham and we made our spiritual home at the church. A couple of years later both my parents were seriously ill in hospital and neither were expected to live, it was Jack and his wife Julie who took charge and took an 11 year old into their home, they called upon the church community to pray for healing for my parents, and reassured me that that whatever happened God was in control, thankfully at that time both survived. It was Jack who encouraged the small group of Young People in the church to participate in worship, to become Stewards and start a youth club, that was to become one of the largest MAYC Clubs in the District. He was always the first to support our “wackey” ideas, and always there to pick us up and “dust us down” if they didn’t work, knowing we were never short of ideas. And of course to support a new local Preacher on “Trial” who he believed God was calling to full time ministry. I thank God for the Bert's and Jack’s of the church who are strong in their faith and generous in giving time and space to allow others to test theirs.

Castle Stalker

So today we journeyed through heavy showers to Fort William to the foot hills of Ben Nevis, the weather didn’t allow us to climb or walk, so if we have time we will return another day. Tomorrow we are off to the Islands of Mull and Iona – the cradle of Celtic Christianity.

Day 20 - Oban

We arrived this afternoon in Oban (Barcaldine) after a wet and cold trip round the banks of Loch Lomond, the views should have been stunning, but much of the time it was shrouded in mist. We had a interesting conversation with the local police as we queued at Starbucks for coffee about the Ilands off Oban we should visit including the island of Islay. We decided not to put up the awning straight away as part of the site was water logged but to stock up on food in Oban. 

I think this is the right place!

Although we returned with plenty of food we took the advice of the campsite warden and went to the local pub for dinner, the pub also should have had a stunning view but as you can see was also misty. regardless 

              View from our table

This looks good

Gone!

Anne seemed to be very happy with the menu!

Will see what tomorrow brings... Apparently their have been the odd sighting of "The Beacon" Duck.

Day 19 - Glasgow

Set off for Glasgow this morning, John Wesley first visited Scotland in 1751 - his journal records that on Wednesday June 1st 1753 – 'We rode to Glasgow, a mile short of which we met Dr Gillies, riding out to meet us. In the evening the Tent (a covered pulpit) was placed in the yard of the poor house, fronting the pulpit was the infirmary, with the most of their manner of baptising. I believe this removed much prejudice'. – Wesley also records “Who would it believed, five and twenty years ago, either that the minister would have desired it or that I should consent to preach in a Scotch Kirk”

We spent the morning looking around the Cathedral (The Cathedral is thought to be built on the site of St Kentigern’s tomb and marks the birthplace of the City. It is the only Scottish Cathedral to have survived the (Scottish) Reformation of 1560) and St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art. 

Wesley records his visit to the Cathedral:

Saturday 4th June – 'I walked through the parts of the old Cathedral, a very large and once beautiful structure; I think more lofty than at Canterbury… I was much pleased with the seriousness of the people in the evening; but still I prefer the English congregation. I cannot be reconciled to men sitting at prayer, or covering their heads while they are singing praise to God’.

John visited the city again in 1772 his journal records, ‘Saturday April 18 – I set out for Glasgow. One would rather have imagined it was the middle of January than the middle of April. The snow that covered the mountains on either hand, and the frost was exceedingly sharp; so I preached within, both this evening and on Sunday morning. But in the evening the multitude constrained me to stand in the street. My Text was, “What God has cleansed, that call not thou common” (Acts 10:15). Hence I took occasion to fall upon their miserable bigotry for opinions and modes of worship. Many seemed to be not a little convinced; but how long will the impression continue?’

On Tuesday 21st he writes, ‘the house was very full in the morning and they showed an excellent spirit, everyone stood up at the singing….. God gave them a loud call, whither they will hear or whether they will forebear.’

On later visits he preaches in the open air in the “High Street” and in "Glasgow Port". He was on several occasions present as a spectator at the meeting of the General Assembly of the Kirk of Scotland, and was shocked at the behaviour of its members.

High Street

Glasow Port Today

The afternoon we decided to take the “tour” bus around the city, we can also testify about the weather – dry but windy especially on the top deck of an open double decker bus – good job the Ark – the Bristol Bus has a roof.

 Whilst waiting for the bus we came across this plaque to 12 Covenanters 

who were hanged for their religious beliefs in 1684. Truly Glasgow is a splendid city, as the bus took us round for over an hour, it will be interesting to see how Edinburgh compares. 

We should have planned to spend longer here but off to Oben tomorrow.

Day 18 - Dr Livingstone I presume?

David Livingstone, the famous Scottish explorer and missionary, was born a short distance from the

campsite at Blantyre cotton mill which has become a museum of his life and work and included items relating to his 30 years of adventures in Africa as explorer, doctor and missionary. Born in Shuttle Row, his family lived with 23 other families and as a child worked in the mill. His family originated from the isle of Ulva, just off the coast of Mull. The Livingstones were descended from Dissenting families, on his mothers side the family were "Covenanters" David became a Scottish Congregationalist. The family benefited from the generosity of the mill owners concern for their workers, they were paid well and cared for the sick and destitute and enabled the children to attend school.

David Livinsone Centre

David Livinstone was to become one of the most famous 19 century explorers of Africa and a pioneer of tropic medicine devoting his life to the alleviation of human misery including being an anti-slavery crusader - He came to believe that his role on Earth was to explore Africa in order to discover routes for commercial trade, as he believed that commerce would provide an alternative to the slave trade and would promote civilization and Christianity. Whilst he died in a remote African Village, he is burried in Westminister Abbey in London.

Tom Weir

On the Banks of Loch Lomond @ Drymen

In the afternoon as the sun came out and the sky turned blue so we drove to Drymen and Balmaha on the banks of Loch Lomond part of the National Park and the meeting place between the Highlands and Lowlands, marking the point both in landscape and culture. We had a wonder round the banks and the woodland and came across the statue of "Tom Weir" - Scotlands most beloved mountain man - climber, author and broadcaster.

Loch Lomond @ Drymen

Loch Lomond @ Balmaha

Day 17 - Wesley Day

Sorry for the lack of posts for the last couple of days as it was difficult to get a good signal in Englethwaite to upload them but the posts are below. This morning we crossed over the "border" into Scotland and have set up camp in Strathclyde Country Park. Whilst I am blogging Anne is getting to grips with the washing, that has also mounted up!

Today is Pentecost Sunday - the birthday of the church and also Wesley Day, in Chippenham it coincides with there Folk Festival Weekend - it seems strange not to be out and about with "Hips and Haws" Clog Team this year. I was reminded that many of the dances they perform are based on the noise of the mills, as the shuttles went to and fro on the weaving looms. The workers would wear wooden clogs of their feet, both because they cheap to make and hard wearing but also afforded some comfort from damp flag stones, and protection from anything being dropped on them. Best wishes to Hips and Haws as they perform in the main arena over the weekend.

Wesley Day

For Methodist today is the day when we celebrate how John Wesley heart was strangely warmed. Also known as Aldersgate Sunday, it relates to events that happened in London on 24th May 1738. He records: Heavy-hearted, he went to an evening society meeting on Aldersgate Street "very unwillingly." It was there, while someone was reading from Martin Luther's Preface to the Epistle to the Romans, that he felt that his heart was "strangely warmed." He describes it as:

I felt I did trust in Christ, Christ alone, for salvation; and an assurance was given me that he had taken away my sins, even mine, and saved me from the law of sin and death.

Day 15  Continued – Englethwaite

Unfortunately the campsite beautiful as it is lacks internet connection (and a loo), and I don’t seem to get the dongle to work, thus the delay in posting the Blogs. To put your mind at rest – yes the caravan has all the facilities we need including internal loo and shower. Anne will not need to use a bucket!

 Carlisle

We left Costa in Carlisle in search of the “Old Town Hall” and guess what? – we were already sitting in it drinking coffee and blogging. I wonder what John Wesley would have made of that! As one who embraced new technology of his time I hope he would have been proud of this 21st century “preacher” We decided to call in to the Cathedral and received a very warm welcome by the verger. Prior to John Wesley’s visits, records show that St Cuthbert visited Christians in Carlisle in about 686AD and that Christian burials took placed near the Cathedral from 700AD. Henry I founded a Augustinian Priory on the site. Destroyed by fire the remains were rebuilt over the next few centuries. The Cathedral survived the Dissolution of the Monasteries because of its “Cathedral” status. In 1745 Jacobites were briefly imprisoned in the building and Sir Walter Scott was married here in 1797.

T S Eliot wrote, ‘The use of a Cathedral is the performance of the complete liturgy of the Church for the Christian year’ for over 900 this Cathedral has been doing just that!

Carlisle Castle

A short walk from the Cathedral is the impressive Carlisle Castle. Originally built in wood by William II on the site of a Roman Fort , the stone castle that stands today was began by Henry I in 1122. The castle holds the record for being the most besieged castle in the country. One famous prisoner held at the castle was Mary, queen of Scots, when she was defeated I May 1568 and abdicated the Scottish throne, fleeing to England she was brought to Carlisle and imprisoned in the Warden’s Tower - now demolished. Mary was allowed to keep a royal court, as Queen Elizabeth paid £56 per week expenses to her Keeper. In 17445 Bonnie Prince Charlie captured the castle but were unable to hold it. Thrown into the dungeon’s without food or water to die we saw the “licking stones” which the Jacobite prisoners licked to have moisture in order to try and stay alive. From 1820 onward's barrack blocks were added and the castle became home to the Border Regiment, and today is still a working garrison as the Head Quarters of the Duke of Lancaster’s Regiment.

Wetheral Priory 

Wetheral Gate House

On our way back to the campsite we stopped at Wetheral Priory – all that remains today is the 15th century gatehouse of this small Benedictine Priory that included a church and a monastic school. The Priory was Dissolved in 1538 its possessions were sold and precious items were taken by the Kings receiver the buildings soon after falling into ruins. The lands were given to the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle (the land and farm are still owned by the Church Commissioners). The gatehouse however was retained as a fortified Vicarage during the 16th & 17th centuries as it provided some protection from the border raiders. Over the years it eventually became a hayloft to the adjacent farm whose buildings now cover most of the site! One of the Priory privileges for those living outside Wetheral was the right of sanctuary from arrest. Those who claimed this right had to toll a bell in the Priory Church, and swear before the bailiff of the manor that he would keep the peace. We have now completed over 1000 miles!

Campsite Wardens!

Day 16 – Hadrian’s Wall Country

We woke to blue skies this morning for our visit along Hadrian’s Wall. For 3 centuries Hadrian’s Wall was a multi-cultural frontier, coving 80 miles and it some places 6 meters high. The ancient equivalent of “The Wall” in the Holy Land and built for a similar purpose to separate two different cultures and the raids into each other territory. Completed in only 6 years by three Roman legions, (1500 men) it is a remarkable feat in engineering. 

Lanercost Priory

First stop today is the stunning ruins of a 13th century Augustine monastery. A place of worship since the 12 century, but was vulnerable to attack during the Scottish-Anglo wars of the 14th century. In 1311 Robert Bruce raided it. After the Dissolution it was in part converted into a family residence, with part of the nave was continued to be used for worship (and is still the Parish Church), whilst the cloister, Presbytery and other buildings fell to ruin.. Henry VIII set a value of £200 as the upper limit for smaller monasteries such as Lanercast any community worth less than this would be shut down after 1536, so the Priory closed in 1538. Part of the site that was “sold off” as part of the private residence included a building converted to house the new vicar, known as the Vicar’s Pele – today the building continues to be the vicarage.

We make our way to Birdoswald Fort

Birdswold Fort – was one of 16 forts built as part of the wall defenses. After the Roman’s left Britian people continued to live in this settlement for a further 1,000 years. Here is the longest continuous stretch of the Wall visible today. One of the features of this fort was an indoor drill hall – due to the climate, drill and exercise could happen regardless of the weather. After lunch we decided to walk part of the Wall down to the river to Willowford Wall Turrets and Bridge. The Roman bridge allowed the Wall to cross the River Irthing, which include two turrets linking it to the fort. The river has since moved and a modern bridge allows walkers to cross the river and follow the route of the wall and all that is left of this huge structure is the footings.

River Irthing

We continue on our way towards a couple of view points at Cawfields and Walltown Crags where we could see the Wall dramatically snaking and diving along the steep crags of Win Sill.

Win Sill

We return to the Campsite weary and tired from our “hike”.. tomorrow we move on to Scotland, and the results of eurovision and “proper” flushing loos!! – Did you know that the act of going to the toilet was a social occasion for Roman soldiers, most forts had multi-seater communal latrines with water channels for washing your hands, but don’t tell Anne!